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This was about 1. Down sizing makes even poor images good. Nice review Trevor. The images you are getting are stunning. I was going back and forth with this camera or a monochrome.
So far I am liking my decision as doing each color channel RGB is not as hard as I though it was going to be. You do have to do a set of flats for each filter you use so there is definitely more work involved but those are the trade offs.
I may purchase a color CMOS with a smaller sensor when galaxy season comes around as they are better done in normal color anyway.
Thanks for the update, Kurt. I am interested in this ASI In cloudynights forum some comments have appeared that discourage the use of this CMOS for long exposures.
The reason is because artifacts appear or refrigeration is not good. I think that for a driver update it has been fixed but I have asked Sam to see how the issue is.
I have high hopes with this camera. I am a nomad at night and I usually move km to plant the telescopes. Thank you very much! Hey Trevor. Love your enthusiasm.
Great professional videos. I have the ASI and am still working with control software to get the gorgeous image I think this camera is capable of.
Am I wrong? Do I need the ? Your Dumb Bell shot is gorgeous. Do you dither your subs? Thanks Michael! The duo-narrowband filter does not include SII — correct.
Yes, I did dither my subs and always do. Could have probably used more exposure time what else is new? I saw in the review that you had the same issue, could you please let me know how you fixed it?
Really looking forward to learning. Just in time for the dark window too. Hi Trevor, nice review, very useful.
What filter do you recommend for light polluted skies? Different animal — more expensive, larger chip.
I was able to get the camera at a great price over the summer on Cloudy Nights. Do you have any tutorials on how you setup and image with this camera and how you would process those images?
If so, please point me in the right direction please. If not, well, what process is recommended? So that feature alone makes the performance between the two night and day.
The uncooled C performed exceptionally well for NB in the city — especially considering the ridiculously hot temps I used it in 30 degree nights!
True head-to-head comparisons are REALLY tough for me to do with limited clear sky time and ever-changing conditions transparency, moon phase, temperature.
Is my refractor to small for this camera? Have you, by any chance, tried this out? Any thoughts? Hi Trevor, Came across your blog while passing time under the endless cloud cover called the UK!
Quick question: in your review of the Esprit you mentioned use of the dedicated flattener. In other reviews you talk about using reducers.
Have you come across a 0. Hi Trevor. Also, how are you shooting flats? Many more questions for you at Cherry Springs this year and thanks from ASH for making yourself available!
Thank you for your great review. Have you managed or tried using it for any planetary imaging? I have a neximage 5 that I have been practicing with, Not sure which is harder, lining up the target or figuring out the software.
Only used DSLR before. Are you fine with that resolution or do you make the picture bigger some how?
In DSS or Photoshop? Settings and so on. Hi Mattias — great choice! Yes I Bin 2X2 each time but drizzle the image in stacking, so it comes out to twice that size.
However, I usually scale my images down a bit anyway. Hey Trevor great review. I just got my new camera and I used it last night for the first time.
I was wondering how your were able to get previews at 3 second loops? I had to go up to 30 seconds just to see something.
Am I forgetting a step? I also had an optolong uhc light pollution filter would that have something to do with it?
Thanks and keep up the great work. Hey Mike — great question. Crazy right? The filter you are using is no problem, I believe it is just a matter of adjusting the image preview settings.
Let me know how it goes! Hey Trevor thanks so much for the help I was able to see everything at 3 second loops. My target is m33 triangulum galaxy tonight.
Thank you for all your amazing reviews and posts! My question is will the be a good camera for the smaller ES ED80? And do you have an idea what would the back focus be on it with that?
Or does this not work like a DSLR? Is there no crop factor when using dedicated Astro cameras? Hi Damian. However, what does change is the field of view presented in the image, with a smaller sensor showing a smaller FOV than a larger sensor.
In photography, people use the concept of equivalence to 35mm full frame cameras so that the FOV is comparable, with 35mm sized sensors is the standard everyone has adopted.
But no such universal adoption in astrophotography sensors is established. But the focal length of the system remains mm.
Thanks for the great, in-depth review. Thanks for this great video. I have the same camera and ran into a issue when calibrating Darks with Pixinsight.
If I use a master bias in the process, I end up with a master dark that has been clipped and a histogram showing that approximately half the pixels are at zero value basicaly, the noise level of the dark is almost the same as that of the bias.
This master dark gives weird results when used to calibrate the light frames. Did you run into the same problem? How did you circumvent it? Thank you for the review.
First time out with it. Amazing subs. One problem I have is the subs all come out mono. I see several other posts here from people with a similar problem.
You say you ran into this issue also. Any advice on how to fix this? I used APT to gather my subs.
I would like to thank you for all your generosity by sharing your knowledge. It has made such a difference for myself and many others.
Here is his explanation below. Being smaller makes processing faster. That yields total pixels. That means the binned total is You can do the same for your sensor size and get the same result.
I currently own the ASI mc cool. I am using it with either a 60mm or 80mm apo refractor. Would you trade the mc for the mc? I am not a specs guy, so just wondering if you had any insight on which camera is better?
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Ron Kramer says:. Kurt Zeppetello says:. August 26, at am. All technical details at one place for easier comparison. ZWO store Want to buy our products?
Quick and safe buy for all PayPal users direct from our store. In this profile, you learn how ZWO cameras are different than other astronomy cameras, and you find out which ZWO cameras are best for imaging the Moon, Sun, planets, and deep sky.
Overall this camera was an unexpected surprise. CMOS technology has really come on leaps and bounds in recent years and this is great news for the consumer.
Its capability and performance go far beyond its modest price tag and when all factors are taken into account it is quite possibly the best camera presently available to those interested in imaging the Moon and planets.
It is able to make excellent Solar System captures and head off into deep space to collect shots of all manner of deep-sky objects as well.
Being able to do this without having to swap cameras is fantastic. The ASI is a great all-round performer and an excellent choice if you want to avoid the hassle of a monochrome camera and filters.
Its excellent infrared sensitivity gives you two devices in one. As amateur astronomers ourselves, we believe that we can design better products for other amateur astronomers.
Our main profile is the design and manufacturing of high speed astronomy cameras, mirrors, telescopes and other accessories for astronomy imaging and observing.
We are serving astronomers in the field with our quality products all around the world. Our planetary cameras are among the most used planetary cameras in the world.
Ideal for all amateur astrophotographers working in the field. ZWO Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector significantly improve the quality of images or you live image in eyepiece.
Mandatory for serious planetary observing and imaging.